itself is a small fishing village, located entirely along a single road
snaking along the coastline. It is a fishing village, home to a number
of small guest houses, and a jumping-off point for exploring the surrounding
inland villages. Candidasa boasts an impressive number of hotels, restaurants,
and tour services. The photo to the left, looking south on the outskirts
of town, shows the beautiful palm trees that line the coast. Taken a bit
further north, the other shows the distinctive outrigger sailing craft
the Balinese use for fishing.
of our longer walks took us toward the interior of the island, a 5 kilometer
(3 mile) trek up the hills to the village of Tenganan, the home of two
cottage industries: tight, hand-woven baskets and the age-old "double ikat"
weaving. The pictures taken here are scenes along the way to Tenganan;
unfortunately, it was rainy the day we actually walked there, so we have
no pictures of Tenganan. The photo to the left was one of the first fields
we encountered that was not devoted to rice; you can see that the mountains
in eastern Bali extend nearly to the coast. The photo to the right was
taken of a road directly leading into one of the many little desas that
dot the narrow road to Tenganan.
specializes in a very unique type of basketry. Tightly woven, the baskets
are firm and rich in texture and detail. After they are woven the baskets
are then smoked to give them their distinctive color. We risked a monsoon
downpour to hike the five kilometers up the mountain to barter for a variety
of baskets. Actually, we purchased some in Candidasa, and sought the more
unusual baskets at their source, in Tenganan. The photo at left shows a
sampling of the baskets we had upon our return to the Water Garden bungalow.
We left them outside, as they still reeked of smoke. (Tracy's sister Alex
will tell you that takes years to go away, but our fingers are crossed...)
The photo at the right shows one of the shops nearer Candidasa wherein
Tracy had the fun of bargaining for the purchase of still a few more baskets.
course hiking and shopping (at least in the little villages) is primarily
a daytime activity. What about the evenings? Candidasa is (fortunately?)
not out to rival Kuta for nightlife, but has enough going on. For instance,
one night we splurged and went to the Serai, an upscale hotel for a fabulous,
if somewhat expensive (at least by Bali standards) meal, while the other
two nights we ate at TJ's, the more-than-adequate restaurant at The Water
Garden (the photo to the left shows us at TJ's). The last night we strolled
down the road until we found some live music at a nearby bar: Five musicians
reading the lyrics to American songs off a well-worn mimeographed lyrics
book. It was a priceless performance, as the band showed great inventiveness
with regard to the lyrics. And they did EVERYTHING--, well, from Dire Straits
to Billy Ray Cyrus, anyway! The highlight (not only for me, but for the
whole bar, judging by the applause) was when Tracy joined them onstage,
leading the band through a rendition of "Angel from Montgomery." I captured
a clip for the American Music Awards (Best performance by an American singer
with an Indonesian band) and you can see it for yourself below.
Click on the (>) arrow to watch the video
departed from Candidasa and headed to Nusa Dua, our last stop in Bali.
The weather finally caught up with us, and we were not able to photograph
the pretty bungalow on the beach where we stayed at Putri Bali. However,
enroute, we stopped at Jimbaran Bay, a popular seafood haunt close to Nusa
Dua. We dined on grilled lobster and crab, and watched the sights. Although
there weren't many tourists there, the local fisherman were out in full
force, both those using nets from the shore and those in the outriggers.
The photo at the left shows the view of Jimbaran Bay, while theo the photo
to the right shows a shore fisherman snagging his catch.
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